We Found Paradise in the Picos Mountains, Vuelta a Espana Part II 6th Jun 2025

Fuente de

After a dramatic and stunning drive from Santander (Bilbao) to Fuente de our first coffee stop was at a traditional ‘Arkwright’ General Stores’ selling everything from wooden crutches to Spanish queso and jamon.  Our journey continued to the modern Parador at the base of the near vertical rock face of the Pico de Valde Cora which rises to 1834m.  With enormous beauty and breathtaking views over the heart of Picos de Europa, with wild orchids and Chuffs flying overhead.  An opportunity for those with the energy to follow many of the walking trails whilst others were quite happy indulging in coffee and cake and watching a large group of trainee police cadets wearing distinctive black caps

On our second evening Martin enlightened us all with the first part of his “History of Spain in a dozen dates”

Leon

Our next stop on the trip saw us at our most southerly point to the high mesata and the historic town of León. Recently renovated to a very high standard by the Spanish Government The Parador de Leon, also known as Hostal de San Marcos is one of the most impressive paradors in Spain, both for its history and its architecture, with sculptures and symbols of power and religion.  The original San Marcos site began its life as a Monastery and Hospital for pilgrims travelling to Santiago de Compostela – a tradition that continues today. 

A day of rest gave us the chance of exploring León and many of us took the opportunity of a guided tour arranged by Martin and James. A visit to the great Cathedral with its important 1,800 square metres of medieval stained-glass windows, depicting a wide array of themes, Biblical stories, Heraldry etc.  

Totally different but also extremely interesting was the Casa Botinus designed by the famous Antoni Gaudi.  After taking in all this history, it called for a cold beer.  Certainly not to be disappointed as the The Plaza de St Martin Leon, has the highest concentration of bars and cafes in Spain – over 150

Returning to the Parador de Leon, we definitely decided we had experienced Paradise when an apparition appeared, perhaps a modern-day pilgrim driving an E Type – no other than David Roxburgh.

The evening was embellished of course, by the final part of Martin's History of Spain.

Cangas de Onis

When we thought the driving and the scenery couldn’t get any better, we were amazed at our journey to Parador de Cangas de Onis, seeing stunning villages across the Picos Mountains, storks nesting on ridiculously big nests perched on lampposts and church bell towers, long twisty roads climbing to 1280m. This being one of the top climbs in the Vuelta Espana cycle race.

As we reached the mountain village of Oseja de Sajambre the miradors were exceptional and truly superior to anything else we had seen on the trip.

The 16km descent through the Desfiladero de los Beyos -one of (if not the greatest) drives in the Picos.  Tracing the gorge cut by the Sella River with vertical rock sides and narrow twisty roads. George Roesch would be proud of everyone’s efforts!

Cangas de Onis

A Benedictine Monastery was our next overnight stop at Cangas de Onis.  Built originally in the mid-8th c., the building has been a National Monument since 1907.  Now catering for the modern travellers with all mod cons. A great opportunity to relax, stretch our legs and once again have a cold beer.

The following day just a short drive was required to our next stop Parador de Santillana Gil Blas and the group ventured to various places, whether it be the funicular railway or visits to the many coastal resorts.

Santillana del Mar

To top it all our last Parador was at Santillana del Mar in a delightful cobbled, pedestrianised medieval village surrounded by many historic buildings.  Our hotel having been built in the 17th century.  From here we sallied forth to visit caves with rock paintings created somewhere between 30,000 and 12,000 years ago and enjoyed pretty seaside towns with busy fishing ports and sandy beaches and visits to another of Gaudi’s house ‘Casa Vicens’ being Gaudi’s first major work as an architect and which, truly was gaudy, with its ornate ceramic tile exterior, featuring sunflowers.

The trip was made up of Talbots, Sunbeams, Alvis speed 20, MG TC and two modern cars, (unfortunately last-minute changes) and even two Australians joined us on ‘shank’s ponies’.

Seeing friends, making new friends, good food, wine, great drives and even instructions on how to cook an egg in a hair dryer. A truly remarkable trip where everlasting memories were made. 

Paradise struck once again, with no mechanical breakdowns in Spain – just a few hot engines climbing the Pecos and a little fuel vaporisation.

With little else to say but special thanks to James, Martin, Trish and Hiliary whom without their dedication none of this would have been possible.

Roll on Vuelta Espana III

James and Sue Wheildon, Guy Gregory and Pauline Remes